I thought I would begin a new thread on these topics to show what I have done.

ENGINE REMOVAL & INSTALL

Here is a photo of my lifting jig.

The lifting plates are fabricated of 1/4" mild steel.   i used the exhaust gaskets as a template for the bolt holes.   The left and right side are not interchangeable and both need to be trimmed at the rear to allow maximun clearance with the cowl when lifting.   The lifting plates should be tight to the heads when lifting.   Take note of the angle iron spreaders holding the chains apart.   This will prevent the weight of the engine causing the plates to work like levers and pry the studs out of the head.   Also note the adjustable transfer (orange part) used- this allows shifting the weight of the engine to change the angle of the engine while lifting.   Be sure the crank is in the rear.   This rig allows one person to safely remove the engine and guarantees no damage to any studs or surfaces.   The crane must be on a flat and very level surface.

ENGINE STAND

Here are photos of my engine stand.

I started with a standard 750# stand.  I wanted two horizontal legs for stability.  It is very easy for one person to move the engine around on a smooth and very level floor.

 All steel is 1/4" mild.  You need not be a certified weldor for a job like this, but you will notice the bracing added at the critical joints.

This stand allows the flywheel to be removed and installed so that critcal timing checks can be done before the engine is in the car.

Also, this stand allows rotating the engine along the axis of the crankshaft- very handy for reassembly, but this is a two person operation as someone must lift the nose of the engine up to take the weight off the pivot and then another person rotates the block to the desired position.

I hope members find these photos useful.

Good luck with your car!

Regards,

JackW